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September 27 Those cities like BeijingWhen I was a child, I used to watching the CCTV seven o'clock news along with my family. I was always wondering why people in the so-called Beijing City could do this and do that, but not us. I asked my mom, why could the children in Beijing march on the street with flowers in their hands all the time? I was too young to remember things by myself then, so that is it. But the point is I had no clue at that time or now that how a city could affect on my life in the future. The last time when I was in Beijing, I was wandering around the Zhongguancun area. The night is coming, and I become more and more anxious because I feel desperate and I think that I am lost. I am hoping to see the lights of the Building on their fifth to eighth floor, where the Disanji bookstore locates. But it never appears during my an hour searching. I stand at the cross of Taipingyang Square, looking into the north. It was the Peking University, where I was dreamed of studying many, many years ago. I could still remember, that I even dare not to take a photo when I sneaked into that place. I was 15 and I thought every senior that I saw in campus should be a master in an area of academy. I spent the only spare time of my journey in two places, one is Peking University, and the other is the Haidian bookstore. I look into the west. I could remember the road, the one from the second circle of Beijing to her fourth one. It was a long, long sunny road for riding a bike. You could pass so many colleges, universities, companies to reach the destination-New oriental English classrooms from the Beijing Normal University, where I stayed for this summer session of GRE study in July, 2005. That is when I actually knew this city. Most of the time, I was busy with my study load. Dreaming of going to the America, there were so many things in my mind, like the future and my career. It was always the least clear one. Many years later, when I saw a movie called, slum dog millionaire, I suddenly realized, that all of my thoughts like my wonders of what is my goal, why I was studying here, why the female profiles were so different from the ones in Hefei and so on, were explained. Because it was written. It was written in 2003, when my father insisted me to go to USTC after the college entrance exam. It was written when I was in grade three, and my grandpa took me to take the new concept English class. It was written when I won a second place in my province in the Olympic competition in biology. It was written when I failed to change my major in college. Everything is the same-it was written. Looking into the east. I could saw over the many, many not that tall buildings, and saw the chemistry institute of Science academy of China. It was 2006, one year before I went to the States. Five of our USTCers, majoring in material chemistry, took a short summer internship in this institute. All of us are in the North America right now. It was my first time to spend all day in the lab. I could still remember when the gate was locked, how could I jump off it to get into our dormitory. I was along, sitting there to watch a Korean series with tears and I found Prison Break. I followed that show till 2009. I paid a visit of the lab I worked there in August, and every student I know had gone. I was a total stranger there. That time, I know better of Beijing. I visited most of the interesting places of Beijing as far as I know, in the speed of one district per a weekend. I do not know it was because of my shoes, or something else. Each time when I went back, my feet hurt as if I could not walk anymore. You know how big Beijing is, right? No you don't-unless you are like me, use the bus only if I could find one directly. Otherwise, I just walk. I walked through tens of museums, several Hutongs, (I actually got lost for a couple of times in them.) and nearly all of the bookstores I could find in Haidian district, including in campus ones. At that time, I already passed my GRE test, and I started to think in a GRE way, that how the world works, who I am. There was almost none I could answer, and I need raw materials to assist my thinking. I have been doing this for more than three years afterwards. So for right now, I could sit here, without any readings, and think many hours without losing my focus. I could answer a large portion of my questions in this way, and that is what I would like to call "common sense". Look into the south. Time flies like a bird. The last time when I put my foot on this street was a month ago, and it IS 2009. I stayed in Beijing for my visa renewal. I was surprised to see the beautiful airport that could beat all the airports I passed by in the States. (Later I saw the domestic terminals; it was not that surprised but still good.) I was tired of everything. I met interesting people on board, but we were all by passers. I saw giant buildings, expensive clothes, nice cars and wonderful foods, but those passed off my mind in no time. There is no detail for any of these except the hint from the Olympic Games. Beijing has so many weird, old traditional names of streets, and they use them for bus stop names. That puzzles me sometime. Like at that moment, if I want to be back to the Rujia restaurant, I need to take the only one bus for an hour to a place which I could never remember what the name is, which is long, and meaningless. But right now, I need to make a choice. Should I continue to search, or just go back to get my things packed? I know the schedule of the buses, and I hope it would work. I know the closing time of the bookstore. I have been there millions of times-even it has been a while from my leaving. I still got time, properly three hours, and I am standing in the middle of the ocean of the crowds. People, buses, cars, bikes, they are running towards me from all the directions. The last moment before I fall into the chaos, I have a glimpse in the sun. She is burning, with blood on her face and clothes nearby, and smiling. I decide to have some dinner and take a breath. The next moment I am awake, it is the time when I am waiting my beef noodles and soy milk. (You know what it is, right?) I regretted to get a hot one, so I ask the waiter for some ice, so that I could add them into my soy milk. I know they sell ice soy milk. But I guess they have their rules. Then I start thinking of someone. I remember when I was in the middle school, I read a series of book hundreds of millions times. It was written by Liu Yong. There are three small books including <Surpass yourself>, <Believe yourself> and <Create yourself>. -As I said, it has been written. A couple of years later, the son of the writer who went to Harvard for a BS and a PhD degree later, wrote another book said, “Hey, you know what I really want? Not all the ‘BS’ that my pa wrote, what I really need is <Find yourself>”. I did read the new book, and it was no good. I think he kind of understood something that I just figure out, that you could never find yourself through the books. You have to be someone, to have someone, so that you will know the answer, and will not lose somewhere. I was surprised that I finally managed to drink up all the milk in hot. I could be proud to say that I still have a 100% Chinese stomach. It was totally dark outside. Everything, under the darkness, is lack of necessary personalities for me to identify. All the stories, people, and places are hard to see in the dark, so as those so astonishing detailed pictures in my mind. And the important thing is: I make up my mind. I am heading home now. What I need, is just a bus, a bed, and a Boeing 777 plane in 20 hours. September 07 幽游白书题记若干年前,新时期时期的部落伴随着三皇五帝的传说在半坡留下了河姆渡文明的痕迹;若干年前,周朝的一些人在我的老家附近的土地上建立了中国历史上第一个封建国家,(或者最后一个奴隶制国家);若干年前,孔子走过了最初的“中原”,或者“诸夏”的疆域来传播周礼;若干年前,中国第一个集权制的帝国,秦国把都城放在了我生活过十八年的土地上面;若干年前,汉朝文景之治的贤君把他的陵寝建在西咸机场的路上,而今天称为了中国第一座地下考古博物馆;若干年前,最伟大的封建国王唐太宗李世民把墓修建在昭陵巍峨的丛山之巅。
若干年后的一个夏天,我将这里一一走过。
同学的父亲是副刊编辑,有幸拜读其文集若干篇。感曰,学理工的,往往不懂得如何堆砌词语,穿坠成篇;中国的小学和中学的教育,往往也难让有天赋的学生获得比较深入的写作方面的训练;于是,比如我,也曾经自以为握着缪斯之笔,涂抹着言不及义,词不达意,和断章取义。同样的内容,如何能够 被表达,实在是学问。
说道学问,和考古系同学在某茶楼小黑屋喝茶,我说,那些博物馆里的瓶瓶罐罐,都是真的么?于是牵扯出人类学,古生物学,以及各种数理化,文史哲的知识。于是,觉得自己作为化学专业的学生,还是应该回去把元素周期表记得全一些。
我们都承认,牛顿和爱因斯坦其实在智商上,并不能够绝对分的高低,不过是后人站在前人的肩膀上了而已。孔子当年所传播的学问,也没必要拔高,不过仅仅代表了那个时代的先进文化的前进方向,希望以一己之力,实现一个小小的文艺复兴。更多的情况,我们也搞不清楚比如秦始皇陵到底有多深,那些悬棺是怎么放到绝壁上去的。可是,历史研究者,必须要搞清楚大禹是不是同性恋或者生理有问题,汉高祖的老婆吕雉是不是吕不韦的孙女-这是时代的呼唤和人民的呼声。可是,人民也许自己也不知道,他们更需要的,是媒体记者和作家写手能够准确的,写出他们自己的真实想法和欲望。就像司马迁一样,我们都知道,一个十几岁的小朋友,比如我表妹,都可以对今天中午饭吃与不吃给出非常详尽的理由,要从这种历史事件中找出前因后果并不是一件容易的事;而司马迁可以把历史的莫衷一是说得跟小朋友的判断一样简单,这是很不简单的。他的后人马克思,能够在中国的土壤上生根发芽,很大程度上也是把问题变得更加简单,一切都是生产力决定的。这似乎和万般皆下品,唯有读书高,学而优则仕,枪杆子里面出政权,落后就要挨打,赢者通吃,数字化生存,货币战争学等等等等不谋而合。这是理工科的胜利,但不是文明的。
我对旅游兴趣很大,但是由于更方面的限制,通常的范围总是局限在生活的圈子里。比如大学期间主要走了走安徽和苏杭的景区。基本上除了京沪和山东,就只剩下陕西省内的景点了。我也写过不少游记,虽然都随着几个blog的删除而忘却。古人讲,读万卷书,行万里路。我常常想,如何能够摆脱“上车睡觉,下车拍照,回去一问啥也不知道”的尴尬?西方人讲人类一思考,上帝就发笑,难道说,那些被游客的喧嚣吵醒的古人不会同样的,导游一介绍,古人就发笑?或者余秋雨一写书,文物就大哭(文化苦旅么)?如果我们不屑于国内考察团,美东美西十日游,我们又能够比他们高明多少?毕竟我们没有生活在乱世或暗无天日的朝代,我们没有犬儒的责任,更没有虚无的必要,我们是新时代的青年。但是,这个游记该怎么写?我仍然在思考。 August 14 回国散记之新北京新形象武林外传 一周之前的今天,清晨,我出去找了一家成都小吃,要了一份豆浆油条。结果,我竟然发现老板说的是陕西话-至少根据我的理解,这是毋庸置疑的。令我郁闷的是,当我用陕西话跟他结账的时候,他竟然听不懂。难道我的方言真的有那么差?父母去故宫参观,我一个人躺在床上看中央九,坚持了半个小时开始看相声。熬到中午,饭毕,带上我的文件夹去签证。
签证之二 结果是行政审查三周。结论:北京签证处官僚主义十分严重,材料必须准备的很完备,什么简历,你老板的传记,你的录取信,财务证明,研究计划都要分门别类准备好。但是签证官还是有其个人考量,哪怕你什么都带了他也不会改变对你的看法。生气一周,决定今天开始好好享受生活,无论这种生活还有几天。
“拆”-共产党永恒的信念 签证完,晚上我们去了鸟巢和水立方。水立方不开放,但是鸟巢开放,我们过去的时候,看到外面的人和里面的人都在围着铁丝网绕圈,跟参观回音壁一样。必须要感叹一下北京有大气魄,整个广场就是一个大大的“拆”字。然后去王府井逛街加吃饭,再次见识了北京的人多,并且结束我们的北京之行。
上海航空 十几年来第一次在国内坐飞机,还不错。上次坐还要追溯到小学五年级,那时紧张啊,起飞和降落的时候我都要拼命的嚼泡泡糖,起飞前上了无数次厕所,生怕到飞机上没有,印象中那时飞机上的饭真是高质量,当然现在的也不错。那时是一个人去看远在海南的父母,这次则是和父母同行回家。其实,无论是什么地方,有亲人的地方,就是我脚步的方向,无论万水千山。 August 12 回国散记之我爱北京天安门Peking roasted duck 父母已经订好酒店,如家快捷酒店燕莎二店,主要是签证方便一些。房间很小,但是很干净安静,所以我们就续了两天。这次回来,印象最深刻的一点,就是物价飞涨。总是免不了需要什么都除个七看看多少钱,结果往往是比美国还贵,而只是日常消费。第一顿饭如愿以偿的吃到了正宗的北京烤鸭,还有纪念卡,上面写着我吃到的是第一亿又多少多少只鸭子,如果一个厨子从自己做的第一只动物算起,也算是有佛心之人,所以我们凡人也不必太较真是否真的如此精确。看上去很肥很大的鸭子,其实也只给片了三盘,还是有好坏之分的,再加一盘鸭头,一盘鸭皮,剩下的都被拿去做汤。汤却是清亮无比,什么都没有。总之,味道意料之中,价格也算公道。出来一看,好家伙,大厅排队的椅子全部坐满,站着等的人几乎堵满大厅,好容易挤出来,外面还是人山人海,看看表,七点半,所幸,吃饭要趁早啊。看来烤鸭已经变成最普通不过的大众饮食,所谓旧时王谢堂前鸭,飞入寻常百姓家了。
绿霸! 第二天父母去爬长城,我起了个早,去找网吧上网,虽说酒店客服声称可以上网,但是我也懒得麻烦。那片儿居民区不多,走了小一会儿,看见一个通道上二层,写着网吧,实在是很破旧的门脸儿,犹豫了一下,还是硬着头皮走进去。里面很敞亮,有工作人员正在拖地。我也就放下心,装作漫不经心的到前台:“我要上机。”眼瞅着前面一位拿回自己的身份证,我也不迭地递上。“压多少?四块还是五块?”“四块”。她嘟囔着,不知说了什么,给我扫了身份证,(第二次去就没有再扫),打出一张小条。我原来一直奇怪,怎么那些民警抓网络发贴一抓一个准,原来是这样啊。(回家以后才发现,现在家里上网也是要账户密码,而且mitbbs和youtube是意料之中不能上的。)
签证之一 找到最近的中信银行,两站路,于是若干年前一双铁脚板走遍北京城的感觉又回来了。缴费回来,跑到对面的美国大使馆遛了一圈,跟门口守卫搭个讪,人家很有礼貌的从台子上下来“前面红绿灯向左。”那时才八点多,门外的队已经很长了。不是说北京的都是按点儿进人么?看来还是要早到。我心中暗想。
Is my cell phone dead? 这几天都没什么电话找我,感情我留了那么多电话都没人理啊。正郁闷着,LM来电,迅速敲定晚上聚会,在亮马桥地铁站东北口集合。再次感谢几位百忙之中抽空过来看我,好人一路平安,上帝也会保佑你们的。 August 11 回国散记之不是猛龙不过江一觉醒来,我心中一阵暗喜,因为天已经亮了。这是我回国以来第一次完整的睡过了一个晚上,而一周之前的此刻,我的闹铃正在地球的另一边欢快的叫着,提醒我离开最后的温暖。
UA851 这半年以来,我做事情往往不太注意细节,似乎各种不顺的事情多了,心情变得十分平和,有种兵来将挡水来土掩的感觉。早上起来,才匆匆的瞥了一眼早就打出来的行程。一个小时,是我从芝加哥转机到北京的时间。还好这次不用入关,不然时间肯定不够-我这样安慰自己。机场遇见合作组的老板,随意的聊了一会儿,他去的也挺早,两个人有话没话地说着,他试图多问一些,我试图多回答一些,也都没什么特别的兴致。唯一一个我挺感兴趣的话题就是他提到为什么总是喜欢做前排,但是我没有听懂。他的两个学生迟迟没有到,直到所有人都在飞机上坐定才出现。飞机整点关闭舱门,开始在跑道上滑行,此刻,我还没来得及暗自庆幸,飞机却停下了。
约莫五分钟,机长用扩音器说到因为今早的暴风雨,飞机需要等其他需要跑道的飞机,大概二十分钟,但是我们仍然可以准点到达芝加哥。我的心一下沉到谷底。当然,无论你多么焦急的盯着空姐和机长的通话,你也无法决定飞机何时起飞;同理,就算你一路上盯着下面的农田,这也不会减少你看到芝城的时间。我们组有个飞行员,我曾经跟他讨论过飞机的交通规则的问题,基本上,多大的飞机,在某个高度区间内航行都是可以的。我们这架,非常果断的向密歇根湖飞去,然后在茫茫湖水上一个U turn,“湖平线”几乎跑道我们视线的正前方,然后才慢慢下落,我实在是怀疑这个飞机开过头了,不过也不一定,飞机毕竟只能head in,什么都是有可能的。
转机异常的顺利,虽然已经迟了将近二十分钟,但是如果不算等carry on行李被拿走需要小等一会儿,以及被第一个挡在坐shuttle的队伍以外的话,我基本上还是保证了倒数第二个登上飞机,之所以不是倒是第一是还有一个连line都会走错,走到旁边那个登机门去了的人。 坐定,旁白的几位中国人献计献策,给我找到了空的行李架,用的是英文。
我的中国心 左边一家,我开始以为带的是孙子,倒是另外一个14岁的女儿看上去靠谱一些。爸爸不怎么说话,只是在我跟妈妈说话的时候笑笑。(后来听说是科大的,念工程热物理)爸爸是上海人,妈妈是北京人,这次回去给爸爸过生日。我和小朋友用英文相谈甚欢,虽然过了半小时就被他发现英文的底细,开始跟我”what did you say?”起来。这时候发现原来飞机上是给发耳机的,大悦。跑去拿出我的笔记本,准备体验一下苹果的六小时超长续航能力。不幸的事再次发生了,居然昨天才装的播放器不见了!绝望之中小朋友突然提出要跟我下国际象棋,刚好我也不会,就跟他下了两把,都输了。郁闷之中开始看小屏幕电影。不一会儿就开始有人发入境卡和查流感的,我这时才发现这一排做了七个中国人,只有我一个拿的是中国护照,一种民族自豪感油然而生。右手边一位老哥开始跟我搭讪,不紧不慢的问些客套。我也慢慢了解到,这位是one way的机票,做软件的,房车都卖,准备裸归。聊了很久,我的感觉是他有点中年危机的味道,觉得人生还需要再搏一次吧。相谈甚欢,他便跑去要了两瓶红酒,开始跟我对饮。这点一定要赞美联航的服务,现在alcohol也free了,酒类还是挺全的。后来大概是他有醉意了,开始说英文,我基本上会用中文给他复述一遍,这样交流也挺特别。飞机就在这种微醺中抵达首都国际机场。
Your fucking H1N1 机场真是修得叹为观止。比我在美国所见的芝城,洛城,凤凰城,达拉斯都要好无数倍,窗外还是灰蒙蒙的天,迎面走过来的工作人员还是参差不齐的带着令人sick的口罩。现在只需要填一个健康检疫表,在第一道门量一下体温,在第二道门交表即可。但是也没有人量体温,那不知列位还都带着口罩干什么?入关处,中国护照持有者通道人数寥寥,而外籍人处则人头攒动,不知道那位已经分别的海归见状作何感想。托运行李也没有人查,只把我们这堆人最前头一个小伙叫过去扫了一下而已,要是美国也能如此,我说不定真可以藏只烤鸭带回米国呢。打开无数道玻璃门的最后一道,看到向我招手微笑的父母,我终于回到了朝思暮想的祖国。 |
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